FOULS IN SNOOKER...

SNOOKER is a cue sport that is played on a baize-covered table with pockets in each of the four corners and in the middle of each of the long side cushions. It is played using a cue and snooker balls: one white cue ball, 15 red balls worth one point each (sometimes played with fewer red balls, commonly 6 or 10), and six balls of different colours: yellow (2 points), green (3), brown (4), blue (5), pink (6), black (7).A player (or team) wins a frame (individual game) of snooker by scoring more points than the opponent(s), using the cue ball to pot the red and coloured balls. A player (or team) wins a match when they have achieved the best-of score from a pre-determined number of frames. The number of frames is always odd so as to prevent a tie or a draw.

Fouls

A foul is a shot or action by the striker which is against the rules of the game.

When a foul is made during a shot, the player's turn is ended and he will receive no points for the foul shot. The other player will receive penalty points.

Common fouls are:

• failing to hit any other ball with the cue ball
• first hitting a ball "not-on" with the cue ball
• potting a ball "not-on"
• potting the white (in-off)
• hitting a ball other than the white with the cue
• making a ball land off the table
• touching the cue ball with anything other than the tip of the cue (except while positioning the cue ball "in-hand"; while "in-hand" the cue ball may be touched by anything exceptthe tip of the cue)
• playing a "push shot" - a shot where the cue ball is in simultaneous contact with the cue tip and another ball (except when playing the cue ball away from a "touching ball"; for this purpose a "touching ball" may refer to any ball, "on" or not.)
• playing a "jump shot" - a shot where the cue ball leaves the bed of the table and jumps over a ball before first hitting another ball
• playing a shot with both feet off the ground.

It is sometimes erroneously believed that if two balls are potted in one shot it is a foul. However, when the reds are "on", multiple reds can be potted and this is not a foul: the player scores 1 point per red.

Should a cue ball be touched with the tip while "in-hand", i.e. when breaking-off or playing from the "D" after being potted, a foul is not committed as long as the referee is satisfied that the player was only positioning the ball, and not playing, or preparing to play, a shot.

When a foul is made, the non-fouling player will receive penalty points equal to the value of the ball "on", or the value of any of the "foul" balls, or 4 points, whichever is highest. When multiple fouls are made in one shot, only the most highly valued foul is counted. Penalty points are therefore at least 4 points and at most 7.

Not hitting the ball "on" first is the most common foul. A player can make life difficult for his opponent by making sure he cannot hit a ball "on" directly. This is most commonly called "snookering" one's opponent or alternatively "laying a snooker" or putting the other player "in a snooker".

Because players receive points for fouls by their opponents, snookering one's opponent a number of times in a row is a possible way of winning a frame when potting all the balls on the table would be insufficient to ensure a win.

If a player commits a foul, and the opponent considers that the position left is unattractive, he may request that the offender play again from the resulting position.

Free ball

A free ball is a player-nominated substitute for the ball on when the player is snookered by a foul.This is because the snooker in this case is produced by a foul and thus not considered legitimate. As such the player is allowed to pick any ball as a free ball, which is then effectively treated as the ball on, thereby voiding the illegitimate snooker. Once the free ball shot is taken legally, the game continues normally (although, if the offending player was asked to play the shot again, then the free ball is void, having to resolve the self-inflicted snooker).

For example, as illustrated in the provided picture, if the ball on is the final red, but is snookered by the black due to a foul, the player will be able to name the blue as the free ball. He could then pot the blue as if it were a red for one point. The blue will then be respotted, a nominated colour ball will be on, and normal play will resume.

Note that, as a natural corollary of the rules, the free ball is always a colour ball. If the ball on is a red, then by definition it cannot be snookered via another red, as it merely provides an alternative clean shot with another ball on. If the ball on is a red, and is snookered by a colour after a foul, then logically the red is either the final one or all reds are snookered by a colour ball, meaning the free ball has to be a colour. If the ball on is a colour ball that is snookered by a red, a previous red must have been successfully potted; the snooker therefore must be self-inflicted and cannot have occurred as the result of a foul. If the ball on is a colour that is snookered by another colour after a foul, all reds must have been already potted; thus the free ball still has to be a colour ball.

Interesting situations could occur if somehow both the free ball and the real ball on are potted. If a colour was the ball on (all reds were potted), and both the free ball and the actual ball on are potted, only the ball on is scored. The free ball is respotted while the actual ball on will stay off the table. This is the only time when attempting to pot a colour that two balls can be potted without a foul occurring, because technically speaking both of the potted balls are on.

If the ball on is red and both the free ball and a real red are potted, then each ball potted is scored as a red for a total of two points. The colour free ball is then respotted and the red remains off the table. By the same logic, it is allowed to cannon a free ball onto a real red to pot the latter (a plant). Going back to the picture above, the player could nominate the black as the free ball, and proceed to plant the real red using the black free ball; if the player somehow potted them both, two points would be awarded and the black would be respotted.

Not potting the free ball incurs no penalty, so the striker may play a snooker using the free ball, gratis. However, if said snooker is achieved by having the free ball obstructing the ball on, then the strike is a foul and a penalty of the value of the ball on is awarded to the opponent. The reason is that the free ball was to be treated as the ball on, and one cannot snooker a ball on by another ball on (following the same logic that a red cannot snooker another red when red is on). The only exception to this is when there are only two balls remaining on the table, namely pink and black. If the opposition somehow fouled trying to pot pink, and illegitimately snookered the striker with the black, then it is fair for the striker to snooker the opposition "back" with the free black ball.

A free ball scenario does not occur when the ball gets stuck at the edge of a pocket jaw (commonly referred to as "angled') in such a manner that the player is unable to hit any ball on. This is because according to the official snooker rules a ball is snookered only if its way is obstructed by balls not on. In this scenario, after a foul, the player may choose to either take the shot from the current position or ask the offender to play again, as per the usual rules on fouls.

Foul and a Miss

A foul and a miss will be called if a player does not hit the ball "on" first (foul) and is deemed by the referee to have not made the best possible attempt (miss). In this case, the opponent has the option to request that all balls on the table to be returned to their position before the foul, and require the fouling player to take the shot again.

The rule was introduced to prevent players from playing professional fouls (i.e., deliberately fouling so as to leave the balls in a safe position, reducing the risk of giving a frame-winning chance to the opponent). Multiple misses often occur because players attempt to hit a shot very softly or thinly in situations where a fuller contact might leave their opponent an easy potting chance. This can lead to an apparently easy escape being attempted several times, as players feel that it is better to concede many points but leave a safe position, than concede none and leave a frame-winning chance.

Note that "best attempt" here has a couple of elements. Firstly, the shot selection must be the easiest to be achieved, so deliberately taking a difficult shot to foul tactically will be still liable to be called a miss. Secondly, sufficient strength must be put into the shot such that the cue ball can even reach the ball "on" (it's possible for the referee not to call a miss if a striker would or did overshoot, but undershooting always results in a miss). Finally, the striker must try to hit the ball "on" as best as he can, getting the cue ball as near to the target as possible. All three of these elements must be present for a striker to be considered to have made a "best attempt", and not just the third element.

There are three situations where a miss will not be called even if the striker failed to do a "best attempt":

1)If either of the players is in need of penalty points to win the frame, or if either players would be in need of further penalty points to win the frame after the current penalty is applied, then a miss will never be called. This is to prevent the score difference from increasing indefinitely due to misses in worst-case scenarios.

2)If the points on the table are equal to the score difference, either before or after the penalty is applied, then a miss may not be called, should the referee believe that the foul was not on purpose. This can prevent the score difference from decreasing too much, at the discretion of the referee.

3)If it is physically impossible to play a legal shot, then it must be assumed that the striker is trying their best already, though the striker must still put sufficient strength in the stroke such that the cue ball would reach its target were it not due to the obstruction. This can happen if the cue ball was completely snookered - since jump shots are fouls in the first place, there is no other way this scenario could end.

A special case occurs after a striker fouls and misses in a non-snookered scenario -- that is, when he fails to hit a ball "on" when there is a clear path to the ball or part of the ball. Should the opposition choose to have the offender play from the position prior to the missing stroke under this situation, then a further failure to provide a best attempt will be called foul and a miss regardless of score difference. A warning is issued, and a third failure will forfeit the frame to the opposition.

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WHY ARE SNOOKER TABLES GREEN...???

ACCORDING to the Hamlyn Encyclopaedia of Snooker the game was originally played on grass (?!) "so

 when the game was brought indoors and played on a table, the green cloth was used so as to make the 

playing surface look like grass."

THE MANUFACTURE of snooker tables in standard green stems from a decision in Plymouth Petty 

sessions on 8 December, 1871. Before then tables had been made in a variety of colours but were most 

often orange. In the poor lighting of the day it was difficult to see the exact movements of the ball against

 the table. This often gave rise to disagreements and disputes between players. In the case before the

 court Arthur Terry, a marine, was charged with "occasioning violent harm to one Riland Metcalfe in the

 course of a melee which ensued between them following a dispute regarding movement of the balls in a 

game of "the snooker". Terry was found guilty but allowed to leave the court unpunished because in the 

opinion of the magistrate "Terry was not of full blame, the colour of the table being in part at fault." The 

magistrate then recommended that "henceforth the cause of harmonious play would be advanced if the 

snooker tables were manufactured in standard green, giving strong contrast to the red of the ball."

POOL TABLE LIGHTS..

Not only is a pool table light an important decorative element of any game room, it also serves a critical functional purpose by eliminating shadows that might cause improper aim.

We have pool table lights in one, two, three, and four light configurations from manufacturers such as Sterling and Z-Lite, and a variety of styles to match almost any game room decor. We also have custom pool table lights that you can choose from.

Almost all of our pool table lights include all the items needed to mount them to your ceiling and electrical box, such as chains, hardware, and decorative cover plates.

We also offer individual light shades in case you have one that needs replacing.

Hanging your pool table light is just as essential as having a level pool table.

If your light is too low, players will accidentally strike them. If they are hung too high, then the light will shine directly into a players eyes.

As a general rule, a light should hang about 32-36 inches above the playing surface. They should be centered above the table, and the light field should extend to the edges of the table, but not much further. Remember, a pool table light is there to eliminate shadows and enhance play, not to light up a room.

It is also recommended to hang chain hung fixtures with the chains at more than a 45 degree angle to the light bar. Chains hung at lesser angles can cause stress and potential failure on the individual loops of the chain.

Whether for a new man-cave or an elegant game room, CueSight is sure to have a pool table light to suit your specific decor and taste!

JBB'S TABLE PLACED IN THE CITY OF PUNJAB (PATIALA)....INDIA.

POOL TABLE

                                           (MATTE & CHERRY FINISHED)

BILLIARD TABLE PARTS & EQUIPMENTS...

A billiard table or billiards table is a bounded table on which billiards-type games are played. In the modern era, all billiards tables provide a flat surface usually made of quarried slate, that is covered with cloth (usually of a tightly-woven worsted wool called baize), and surrounded by vulcanised rubber cushions, with the whole elevated above the floor.More specific terms are used for specific sports, such as snooker table and pool table, and different-sized billiard balls are used on these table types. An obsolete term is billiard board, used in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Parts and equipment

Cushions:

Cushions (also sometimes called "rail cushions", "cushion rubber", or rarely "bumpers") are located on the inner sides of a table's wooden rails. There are several different materials and design philosophies associated with cushion rubber. The cushions are made from an elastic material such as vulcanised (gum or synthetic) rubber. The chiefly American jargon rails more properly applies to the wooded outer segments of the table to which the cushions are affixed.

The purpose of the cushion rubber is to cause the billiard balls to rebound off the rubber while minimizing the loss of kinetic energy.

When installed properly the distance from the nose of the cushion to the covered slate surface is 1 ⁷⁄₁₆ inches (37 mm) while using a regulation 2 ¹⁄₄-inch (57 mm) ball set.

The profile of the rail cushion, which is the cushion's angle in relation to the bed of the table, varies between table types. The standard on American pool tables is the K-66 profile, which as defined by the (BCA) has a base of 1 ³⁄₁₆ inches (30 mm) and a nose height of 1 inch (25 mm). This causes the balls' rebound to be somewhat predictable during game play.

On a carom table, the K-55 profile is used (with a somewhat sharper angle than pool cushions). K-55 cushions have cloth, usually canvas, vulcanized into the top of the rubber to adjust rebound accuracy and speed.

Finally, snooker tables may use an L-shaped profile, such as the L77 profile. This is mostly because snooker uses balls of a smaller diameter and smaller pocket entrances than pool does.

The bed :

The bed – the cloth-covered horizontal playing surface – is, on good-quality equipment, made of solid, finely ground slabs of slate, most often from Italy, Brazil or China. Small pool tables may use only one or two pieces of slate, while carom, English billiards and tournament-size pool tables use three. Full-size snooker tables require five. The gap between slates is filled with a hard-drying putty, epoxy or resin, then sanded to produce a seamless surface, before being covered with the cloth. When several pieces of slate are joined poorly it is possible for the resin to deform and cause an uneven playing surface; it can also be difficult to move once joined.

Tables for the home market usually use slate beds as well, but the slate is often thinner, down to about ​ ¹⁄₂ inch (13 mm). The early table beds were made of cloth-covered wooden boards. Today, inexpensive but not very rigid or durable materials used for the beds of low-end tables (e.g. for children's recreation rooms) still include wood, especially medium density fibrewood and plywood, as well as plastics and other synthetic materials under various trade names.

Cloth :

Billiard cloth (sometimes erroneously called felt) is a specific type of cloth that covers the top of the table's "playing area". Both the rails and slate beds are covered with 21–24-ounce billiard cloth (although some less expensive 19-ounce cloths are available) which is most often green in colour (representing the grass of the original lawn games that billiards evolved from), and consists of either a woven wool or wool-nylon blend called baize.

Most bar tables, which get lots of play, use the slower, thicker blended felt because it is cheaper. worsted cloth is more expensive but lasts longer. This type of cloth is called a woolen cloth. By contrast, high-quality pool cloth is usually made of a napless weave such as worsted wool, which gives a much faster roll to the balls. This "speed" of the cloth affects the amounts of swerve and deflectionof the balls, among other aspects of game finesse. Snooker cloth traditionally has a directional nap, upon which the balls behave differently when rolling against vs. running with the direction of the nap.

Markings :

sights, also known as diamond (for their traditional shape), are inlaid at precise, evenly spaced positions along the rails of some tables (not usually on snooker tables) to aid in the aiming of bank or kick shots. There are seven along each long rail (with the side pocket interfering with where the seventh one would go, on pocket billiard tables) and three along each short rail, with each of the four corners counting as another in the mathematical systems that the diamonds are used to calculate. These sights divide the playing surface into equal squares. Books, even entire series of books, have been written on geometric and algebraic systems of aiming using the diamonds.

Spots are often used to mark the head and foot spots on the cloth. Other markings may be a line drawn across the head string (or across the balk linewith the "D", in British-style pool). Another case is the outline of the triangle rack behind the foot spot where the balls are racked in straight pool, since the outline of this area is strategically important throughout the game. In artistic pool, lines may be drawn between opposite sights putting a grid on the playing surface. Other grid patterns are used in various forms of balkline billiards. A recent table marking convention, in European nine-ball, is the break box.

NOW,GAMES PLAYED ON A SNOOKER TABLE...

English billiards

Dating to approximately 1800, English billiards, called simply billiards in many former british colonies and in the UK where it originated, was originally called the winning and losing carambole game, folding in the names of three predecessor games, the winning game, the losing game and the carambole game (an early form of straight rail), that combined to form it. The game features both cannons (caroms) and the pocketing of balls as objects of play. English billiards requires two cue balls and a red object ball. The object of the game is to score either a fixed number of points, or score the most points within a set time frame, determined at the start of the game.

Points are awarded for:

• Two-ball cannons: striking both the object ball and the other (opponent's) cue ball on the same shot (2 points).
• Winning hazards: potting the red ball (3 points); potting the other cue ball (2 points).
• losing hazards(or "in-offs"): potting one's cue ball by cannoning off another ball (3 points if the red ball was hit first; 2 points if the other cue ball was hit first, or if the red and other cue ball were "split", i.e., hit simultaneously).

Snooker

Snooker is a pocket billiards game originated by British officers stationed in India during the 19th century, based on earlier pool games such as black pool and life pool. The name of the game became generalized to also describe one of its prime strategies: to "snooker" the opposing player by causing that player to foul or leave an opening to be exploited.

In the United Kingdom, snooker is by far the most popular cue sport at the competitive level, and major national pastime along with association football and cricket. It is played in many commonwaelth countries as well, especially in Asia. Snooker is uncommon in North America, where pool games such as eight-ball and nine-ball dominate, and Latin America and continental europe, where carom games dominate. The first world snooker championship was held in 1927, and it has been held annually since then with few exceptions. The (WPBSA) was established in 1968 to regulate the professional game, while the (IBSF) regulates the amateur games.

GAMES PLAYED ON POOL TABLE...

There are many variations of games played on a standard pool table. Popular pool games include eight-ball, nine-ball, straight-pool and one-pocket. Even within games types (e.g. eight-ball), there may be variations, and people may play recreationally using relaxed or local rules. A few of the more popular examples of pool games are given below.

In eight-ball and nine-ball, the object is to sink object balls until one can legally pocket the winning eponymous "money ball". Well-known but waning in popularity is straight pool, in which players seek to continue sinking balls, rack after rack if they can, to reach a pre-determined winning score (typically 150). Related to nine-ball, another well-known game is rotation, where the lowest-numbered object ball on the table must be struck first, although any object ball may be pocketed (i.e., combination shot). Each pocketed ball is worth its number, and the player with the highest score at the end of the rack is the winner. Since there are only 120 points available (1 + 2 + 3 ⋯ + 15 = 120), scoring 61 points leaves no opportunity for the opponent to catch up. In both one-pocket and bank pool, the players must sink a set number of balls; respectively, all in a particular pocket, or all by bank shots. In snooker, players score points by alternately potting red balls and various special "colour balls".

Two-player or -team games

• Eight - ball: The goal is to pocket all of one's designated group of balls (either stripes vs. solids, or reds vs. yellows, depending upon the equipment), and then pocket the 8 ball in a called pocket.
• Nine - ball: The goal is to pocket the 9 ball; the initial contact of the cue ball each turn must be with the lowest-numbered object ball remaining on the table; there are numerous variants such as seven ball, six ball, and the older forms of three-ball and ten-ball, that simply use a different number of balls and have a different money ball.
• Straight ball (a.k.a. 14.1 continuous pool): The goal is to reach a predetermined number of points (e.g. 100); a point is earned by pocketing any called ball into a designated pocket; game play is by racks of 15 balls, and the last object ball of a rack is not pocketed, but left on the table with the opponent re-racking the remaining 14 before game play continues.
• Bank pool: The goal is to reach a predetermined number of points; a point is earned by pocketing any called ball by banking it into a designated pocket using one or more cushion.

Speed pool

Speed pool is a standard billiards game where the balls must be pocketed in as little time as possible. Rules vary greatly from tournament to tournament. The International speed pool challenge has been held annually since 2006.

GAMES PLAYED ON CAROM BILLIARD TABLE...

There are 3 major subdivisions of games within cue sports:

• CAROM BILLIARDS, referring to games played on tables without pockets, typically 10 feet in length, including balkline and straight rail, cushion caroms, three-cushion billiards, artistic billiards and four-ball.
• POOL, covering numerous pocket billiards games generally played on six-pocket tables of 7-, 8-, or 9-foot length, including among others eight-ball (the world's most widely played cue sport), nine-ball (the dominant professional game), ten-ball, straight pool(the formerly dominant pro game), one-pocket, and bank pool; and
• SNOOKER and ENGLISH BILLIARDS, games played on a billiards table with six pockets called a snooker table (which has dimensions just under 12 ft by 6 ft), that are classified entirely separately from pool based on a separate historical development, as well as a separate culture and terminology that characterize their play.

Now we will discuss only GAMES THAT ARE PLAYED ON CAROM BILLIARDS TABLE...

Balkline (sometimes spelled balk line or balk-line) is the overarching title of a large array of carom billiardes games generally played with two cue balls and a third, red object ball, on a cloth-covered, 5 foot × 10 foot, pocketless table that is divided by balklines on the cloth into marked regions called balk spaces. Such balk spaces define areas of the table surface in which a player may only score up to a threshold number of points while the object balls are within that region.

The balkline games developed to make the precursor game, straight rail, more difficult to play and less tedious for spectators to view in light of extraordinary skill developments which allowed top players to score a seemingly endless series of points with the balls barely moving in a confined area of the table playing area. Straight rail, unlike the balkline games, had no balk space restrictions, although one was later added. The object of the game is simple: one point, called a "count", is scored each time a player's cue ball makes contact with both object balls (the second cue ball and the third ball) on a single stroke. A win is achieved by reaching an agreed upon number of counts.

Carom billiards players of the modern era may find it surprising that balkline ever became necessary given the considerable difficulty of straight rail. Nevertheless, according to Mike Shamos, curator of the U.S. Billiard Archive, "the skill of dedicated players [of straight rail] was so great that they could essentially score at will." The story of straight rail and of the balkline games are thoroughly intertwined and encompass a long and rich history, characterized by an astounding series of back and forth developments, akin to a billiards evolutionary arms race, where new rules would be implemented to make the game more difficult and to decrease high runs to keep spectators interested, countered by new shot inventions and skills interdicting each new rule.

Three-cushion billiards (sometimes called three-cushion carom, three-cushion, three-cushions, three-rail, rails and the angle game, and often spelled with the numeral "3" instead of "three") is a popular form of carom billiards.

The object of the game is to carom the cue ball off both object balls and contact the rail cushions at least three times before the last object ball. A point is scored for each successful carom. In most shots the cue ball hits the object balls one time each, although hitting them any number of times is allowed as long as both are hit. The contacts between the cue ball and the cushions may happen before and/or after hitting the first object ball. The cue ball does not have to contact three different cushions as long as they have been in contact at least three times in total. Each player has his own cue ball. In modern three-cushion, the neutral ball is red, and the cue balls are white and yellow. The introduction of the yellow ball (instead of two white balls) has not changed any rules, each player has always used a cue ball of his/her own, with small markings on the white balls in order to discriminate them from each other. The yellow ball makes it easier for spectators to follow the game.

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AIR HOCKEY TABLE...

An air hockey table has a similar appearance to a pool table when viewed from a distance; 

however the playing surface is very different. Air hockey tables are built using an extremely 

smooth surface perforated by thousands of miniature air holes.

Underneath the table a fan is fitted that blows upwards into the table cavity and ultimately 

forces jets of air to rush thought surface holes.

Players stand either end of the table with mallets or pushers and strike a flat disc known as 

a puck with the aim of getting the puck to go into the opponent�s goal.

The jets on the table create an air cushion underneath the puck allowing it to float across 

the play surface. It is this reduction in friction that allows the air hockey puck to reach such 

high speeds. The skill of air hockey is not just to knock the puck directly at the opponents 

goal mouth, but also to use the sides of the table (known as rebound rails) to attack the 

opponents goal area from a variety of different angles.

 

MAKING OF A POOL CUE..

Although we discussed the different types of woods that can be used for making a cue, we will see here the procedure for making cue sticks out of hard maple (Acer saccharum) for the cue shaft, with a handle made out of lacewood (Cardwellia sublimis). Start by roughing out some blanks of hard maple wood to around 1" in diameter, and set them aside to dry. When the blanks have sufficiently dried, you can follow the following procedure:


PART -1

MAKING THE POOL CUE SHAFT

Step 1: Mount a dried cue blank on the wood lathe using a stronghold chuck with a spur attachment. True this shaft with the lathe running at 1500 rpm, and jump the speed to 2000 rpm during the finishing process.

Step 2: Use a steady rest while turning the shaft for the cue. Position the steady rest about 1 foot from the tailstock, and true 1" sections at a time. Stop the lathe, and reposition the steady on the section that you just turned. Go back to the tailstock, and work towards the steady rest turning the shaft.

Step 3: It is advisable to use a skew tool and give a peeling cut to the shaft while turning. Also, keep the contact surface between the wood and the tool as small as possible to avoid excessive vibrations. Refrain from giving a deep cut, as it might result in vibrations.

Step 4: In this step, we have to square both the ends of the cue shaft. Remove the spur attachment, reverse the blank and remount it in the chuck, and bring the tailstock in position. The reason for reversing the shaft is that it is easier to true the shoulder on the tailstock end rather than the headstock. The shoulder should be angled 1-3° in, so the outside of the blank rests in the back of the chuck.

Step 5: Position the steady rest at the tailstock to hold the shaft firmly in place.

Step 6: Remove the live center and place the drill chuck in the tailstock with a.360 bit drill. Be very careful to ensure that the hole is drilled exactly at the center. Drill a 1¼" deep hole in the shaft.

Step 7: In this step, remove the drill bit and mount a 7/16-14 tap in the drill chuck. Tap the previously drilled hole to receive the brass insert. Thread a 5/16-18 x ½ bolt in the insert.

Step 8: Apply some glue to the internal thread, and use the bolt to thread the insert in place. Back the bolt out carefully.

Step 9: Thread a 5/16-18 x ½ pin in the insert. Now, reverse the shaft by placing the pin in the chuck.

Step 10: Start at the tailstock and turn the first 9" of the shaft to the same diameter, and then work towards the headstock, which will have a final diameter of ⅞". Remember to use the steady rest in order to minimize the vibrations.

Step 11: Place two 7/8-5/8 OD-ID plastic rings at the headstock, with a silver ring in between them.

Step 12: Finish only the first 4" of the shaft, and then use a piece of leather polish to finish the remaining shaft.

Step 13: Now, place a ferrule on the tip of the cue shaft. If the diameter of the ferrule is larger than the shaft tip, turn it on the lathe to make it of the same diameter as the shaft tip.

Step 14: Stick a tip in place on the ferrule with some Hot Stuff Glue. Position the steady rest so that it is holding the ferrule. Reduce the lathe speed to 500-600 rpm, and true the tip and the ferrule. The shaft should feel like a complete piece without any edges when you run your finger over it. The final length of the shaft should be 29".



PART -2


MAKING THE POOL CUE BUTT OR HANDLE

Step 1: The length of the handle should be 29", and the cumulative weight of the shaft and the handle should be 18-22 oz.

Step 2: Start with a 2" stock of lacewood, and rough it out to around 1¼" in diameter. Make sure that the shoulder at the tailstock is square.

Step 3: Reverse the handle and mount it into a 3-jaw or equivalent chuck.

Step 4: Drill a hole that is slightly smaller than the 5/16 pin into the handle using a drill chuck mounted in the tailstock. The hole should be about 2" in depth.

Step 5: Apply some Hot Stuff Glue in the hole, and press the 5/16 pin into position with the drill chuck. This method will make sure that you have perfect alignment, which you probably will not be able to achieve while tapping.

Step 6: After the glue has dried, reverse the handle and place the pin in the driving chuck. You will know whether the previous step was done correctly if the shaft runs true when the lathe is turned.

Step 7: Take a cut along the entire length of the handle to make it perfectly cylindrical. Do not take the cut too deep in order to avoid vibrations.

Step 8: In the next step, you have to add a stainless steel joint collar. Prior to that, drill 5/8 ID threads on the collar. Also, place a 7/8 OD x 5/8 ID x 1/2 black butt material between the collar and the wood. After the end of the handle is turned to 5/8 OD, place the collar in the chuck, apply glue, and then place the collar and ring into position.

Step 9: Turn and finish the handle of the pool cue to the desired taper. It should feel like a complete piece without any joints and edges if you run your finger over it. You can use several coats of gun stock finish on the handle to make it look good. Finally, add a rubber stop at the end.

Your custom-made pool cue stick is now ready to be used, and you can start playing with it once the finish has dried. If you are a novice to woodworking though, we strongly recommend that you just buy a ready-made cue stick. This is because you might get into an accident, as working with a lathe can be quite dangerous if you are not familiar with it, while also wasting a lot of money on the raw materials.